August in Scotland – technically still summer, but if you’re anything like me, as soon as July disappears, that default back to school vibe kicks in, along with the ‘until next year’ reluctant goodbye to those sea salt, sand and sunshine days.
That said, I’ve always thought that there’s something quite magical about August and early September in Scotland; I find it a very poignant, powerful time of the year.
The light, weather, air, mood and atmosphere all start to change ever so subtly, giving way to a mix of bittersweet emotions about those last days of summer and the joys of nature that lie ahead with Autumn, all of which unfailingly steer me towards the kitchen.
All seasons of course present an abundant array of nature’s bounty to rouse a quarterly culinary renaissance in the kitchen, however, it’s the transition from summer to Autumn that truly awakens my inner chef.
As I floated towards the end of my own last hurrah of summer recently in Ibiza, an invitation landed in my in box, the type of invitation that seemingly arrives for no other reason than the stars being completely aligned.
An invitation to an exclusive dinner at Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel with internationally acclaimed chef, restaurateur, food writer and one of the globe’s most influential food talents, Yotam Ottolenghi.
Who could be a better inspiration to take me, my pots, pans and epicurean enthusiasm into these golden few weeks ahead? What could possibly be a better venue…
Simple, pared back, chic with a touch of Ibiza glamour, the resort is nestled at the foot of the Atzaró mountain, against a lush backdrop of Sabina and pine tree forests.
Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel is built on the site of a 300-year-old finca within a sprawling, secluded 13-hectare estate of thriving farmland, fragrant orange groves, tropical palms and Mediterranean herb and fruit gardens.
The connection to nature is 360 degrees strong and a unique energy washes over each of my senses as I meander through the whitewashed pathways and tiptoe across the lilypad pond stepping stones.
Body and soul are filled with the gentle warmth from the fiery red earth as I head towards the three-hectare vegetable garden, home to passion fruits, apples, avocados, papayas, lemons, pomegranates, oranges, cucumbers, lettuces, tomatoes, herbs and the venue for this evening’s dinner.
Food is one of the strongest points of the hotel, with the farm to fork philosophy connecting every dish with nature; organic vegetables, fruits and herbs are plucked daily from the Atzaró Vegetable Garden.
I’ve had the privilege of staying at Atzaró on two occasions; everything here has a strange air of serendipity, a sense of things being ‘meant to be’.
Tonight feels like one of those nights, as the amber and pink sunset dips behind the mountain, casting a spellbinding glow across the estate. Ottolenghi at Atzaró, I expect, will be a match made in an organic slice of Ibizan heaven.
The air beneath the most magnificent lantern dressed umbrella pine tree is filled with subdued beats, clinking glasses and chilled chitter chatter in anticipation of this extraordinary event, which it transpires, has been three years in the making.
Moving into an open-air, atmospheric palm tree and tumbling plant framed garden plaza with beautifully decorated rustic tables, we’re welcomed with a mesmerising performance of traditional flamenco, before Ottolenghi takes to the stage.
Introducing the menu, he tells guests “It’s all about the produce; everything tastes so much better when it’s grown around you.” A self-confessed ‘Ibiza virgin’ (this is Ottolenghi’s first visit to the island), he announces, “Tonight, we’re playing with some Spanish traditions, dipping our toe in this rich environment and enjoying everything this beautifully fertile island has got.”
The menu has been lovingly created by YotamOttolenghi and his team over a five-month period to present a perfect union of Ottolenghi at Atzaró and as you would expect, an organic ingredient-rich, abundantand colourful celebration, with roots in the Middle East and Mediterranean.
Ingredients have been freshly picked from the AtzaróVegetable Garden, non-vegetable elements locally sourced and a selection of local wines carefully curated to complement each stage of the menu journey.
‘The Ottolenghi effect’; colour, flavour, bounty and sunshine runs through runs through each of the five courses.
The first course, caramelised onion and fresh herb salsa, served with Atzaró Vegetable Garden crudités is “all about the greens” according to Ottolenghi. It’s textural joy; sublimely silken with a divinely dippable texture and bursting with fresh summer flavours and goodness. The grilled Padrón peppers and muhammara cups with walnuts and pomegranate molasses are a sweet, nutty, tangy twist on traditional tapas.
Next to arrive at the table is a dish of Atzaró Vegetable Garden tomatoes with confit herbs and sesame black lime focaccia, “sharp, punchy black limes from the Persian Gulf”. The fluffy, chewy texture of focaccia pairs so perfectly with the ripe firmness of the sweet, aromatic tomatoes.
The arrival of each dish is a treat for all senses; vibrant, multi-layered compositions of simple ingredients that sing. The roasted aubergine with feta cream, chermoula and orange is a joyful addition to the table. It looks too good to mess with; we do, heartily.
The chargrilled and roasted courgettes with Manchego cheese, burnt butter and pine nuts dish is earthy, mellowand utterly exquisite; the accompanying Can Axartellorganically farmed white wine, a perfect pairing.
The entrance of a plate of juicy, succulent strips of Shawarma lamb with pita pockets, sumac tahini, pomegranate and mint salad is a highlight. The most fragrant, warming dish with a subtle zesty, uplifting tartness – a tastebud trip and sensory delight.
A showstopping Sunset pavlova with apricots, orange blossom and pistachio brings a dreamy end to the most flavourful celebration of life, love and food.
I leave the white isle filled with inspiration, creative ideasand a renewed zest for the kitchen.
The word ‘Ottolenghi-fied”, connoting flair and a twist to the familiar was coined by the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen team. As I board the flight home, my husband reminds me (as he does at the end of every holiday) of the old Scots phrase “Back to old clothes and porridge then!”.
I’m pretty sure there’s a way to Ottolenghify even that…
Fact Box:
Rates at Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel Rates start from 245€ in low season, for a double bedroom including breakfast, yoga & wellness classes and full spa facilities and go up to 1375€ in high season.