Uncovering the hidden gems of Valencia

Life.  One day, you’re wrestling fistfuls of Spaghetti Bolognese from the hands of a ‘terrible twos’ toddler and in what seems like a blink of an eye, said toddler is halfway through university, living independently and hopefully, now using a fork.

I promised myself that once I’d got my son through school and off to university (which I did as a single mother), I would spend as much time as possible travelling and immersing myself in the world.  So, on a recent trip to Ibiza, rather than coming back home, I went somewhere else.

A 45-minute plane hop from the White Island took me to Valencia, one of Spain’s most vibrant cities, one which is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, Barcelona and Madrid.

Recently voted as the best coastal destination in Europe, Spain’s third largest city which enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year sits on the east coast of Spain, surrounded by 77 miles of beach.

As far as cities by the sea go, this 2000-year-old Valencia has the blend of everything you would want from a short break away; beaches, attractions, history, heritage, culture and as it turns out, an extraordinary food and drink scene, with no fewer than 22 Michelin-starred restaurants spread across the region.

In most of the cities I’ve visited for the first time, I’ll do the tourist thing, but on this occasion, probably thanks to my four days of blissful decompression at Ibiza’s A-lister, bohemian retreat, Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, my inner compass was telling me to explore both avenues and alleyways to discover the city’s hidden gems. 

Staying at the chic, boutique hotel, Hospes Palau de La Mar (the former nobleman’s mansion had views of the sea before the city was developed), I was perfectly placed to explore the must visit attractions and wander a little off the beaten track.

First on my list was Mercat Central, the largest fresh produce market in Europe and one of the most emblematic examples of Art Nouveau architecture in the city, with its wrought iron, brightly coloured ceramic tiles and ornate stained-glass windows.

Brimming with Mediterranean life, the market has more than 1500 stalls with fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, spices, nuts, cheese and meats.  Watch out for those live eels… A top market eatery and must visit is Central Bar, with its tapas, local dishes and gourmet sandwiches by local superchef, Ricard Camarena, whose restaurant was named 96 in the World’s Best Restaurants 2023.

I leave one market and head for another, Mercado de Colón, another jaw dropping example of Art Nouveau architecture with its brick façade, interior glass walls and finely crafted mosaic features.

I’m here to visit Horchatería Daniel, one of the most iconic places in the city to drink horchata, a cool milky drink made from tiger nut and one of the region’s most famous specialities.

Horchatería Daniel have been making natural artisan horchata and the accompanying sponge fingers since 1949; the café has welcomed the most famous celebrities of every era, from Salvador Dali to the Valencia FC football stars of today.

Valencia was awarded the accolade of World Design Capital in 2022 for its outstanding architecture and the design of its public buildings and infrastructure. Design and personality oozes through the ancient city’s streets with its ornate, historic buildings and contrasting bold, futuristic structures. It’s a city with one foot in the past and one foot firmly in the future.

I spend hours wandering through the old town’s maze-like streets, immersed in an architectural blend of Roman, Moorish, Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Art Nouveau buildings.

I stumble upon the Museum of Ceramics, said to be the jewel in Valencia’s architectural crown and marvel at this seventeenth-century palace’s imposing Rococo alabaster entrance. One of the most photographed sights in the city, it’s home to 5,000 exhibits dating from prehistoric, Greek and Roman times as well as contemporary pieces, including works by Picasso.

Valencia has a vision of making life better for residents through green initiatives and Turia Gardens is just one example of that and Valencia’s ingenuity. A nine-kilometre green oasis and one of the biggest urban parks in Spain, winding its way through the city. Turia Gardens was created after a tragic flood in 1957 which saw almost three quarters of the city under water. The following year, planners, landscapers and architects diverted the river around its western outskirts towards the Mediterranean and transformed the riverbed into a leisure area and a favourite spot in the city to go running, cycling and enjoy events and attractions.

I wander through the gardens, en-route to an intriguing casual eatery, Kiosko La Pérgola, which has been serving a special kind of sandwich for more than 30 years; so much so, it’s now viewed as a Valencian Institution. 

According to one of Spain’s top chefs, Vicky Sevilla, they serve the best lunch in Valencia.  That’s good enough for me.  It’s not quite lunch though, it’s almuerzo, a traditional bite in Spain taken somewhere between breakfast and lunch, but never referred to as brunch… Having clocked up many thousands of steps, I’m ready for my midday bocadillo.

The queue I spot in the distance, which snakes round the early 20th century kiosk and restaurant, is an early indicator that this is going to be every good as bit as the word on the street.

The Super Bombón is their signature sandwich; a Spanish baguette which nods to a Portuguese Roll, served with pork loin, cheese, garlic, sautéed mushrooms, mayonnaise, salsa verde and chips.  Yes, all in the sandwich.  I go for the Pucho – chicken, cheese, tomato, mayonnaise, served with a topping of chips.  If anyone wants to open a bocadillo café in Scotland, I can guarantee that a filled baguette and chip combo is everything we didn’t know we needed.  It’s sandwich heaven on earth.

Determined to clock up some more steps (after that lunch…), I head to the City of Arts and Sciences, a futuristic complex, designed by world renowned architect Santiago Calatrava and one of many examples of Valencia’s commitment to innovation and culture; it’s a true symbol of Valencia’s modernity, progressive spirit and quiet confidence.

The campus is home to the majestic, 14 storey Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía which has four venues for opera, theatre, music and ballet; Oceanogràfic, Europe’s biggest aquarium with 500 different species, Hemisfèric, a digital 3D cinema and the Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe, with its interactive science exhibitions and refreshing philosophy of ‘Not touching is prohibited’!

With a few more steps left in me, I head to Café Madrid, once the focal point of Valencia’s bohemian, artistic and literary life and birthplace of the legendary Agua de Valencia.

The cocktail which comprises fresh orange juice, cava and a generous splash of gin and vodka over ice was invented at the cafe in 1959. With its mix of Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, Café Madrid is a deliciously decadent step back in time and a must visit for cocktail lovers – the perfect place for a preprandial.

Dinner is at Bar Ricardo, a third-generation tapas bar which has been around since 1947. A modest looking, no-frills restaurant located in a residential neighbourhood, its clearly one of Valencia’s best kept secrets.

Tables are all booked, there’s space to eat at the bar but within ten minutes, it’s full of diners and the place is abuzz with locals enjoying food, wine and lively conversation. I go for the patatas bravas which are tipped to be the best in town followed by the other worldly Tarta de Queso.

Two days is enough to get a good feel for a city but not quite enough to explore all of Valencia’s hidden and more obvious gems.  I felt a real sense of connection to the city in my short time there; enough to feel comfortable, at ease, stimulated and rewarded.  It’s also very relaxed, upbeat and friendly so it’s somewhere I’d choose to visit again, and probably again.

A true travel gem, uncovered.

A ‘Familymoon’ in Ibiza


Where to go on honeymoon after a dreamy elopement surrounded by the romance and renaissance of a 16th century Medici villa in Florence? A honeymoon for… six.

A ‘familymoon’. Hmmm. Where in the world..?

Then I remembered ‘the sign’.

Ibiza is the answer – who cares what the question is?

I’m guessing the Ibiza Airport sign writer hadn’t ever considered the question would be ‘Where should these middle-aged newlyweds take four teenagers to celebrate their blended familyness?’

‘Why don’t we all go to Ibiza? There’s everything to make everyone happy and we can sneak off to Pikes for a party”, said I. My husband agreed enthusiastically. Maybe a little too quickly.

Our first taste of Ibiza hit us as we boarded the plane, Ibiza of course being the answer to many other questions such as ‘Where can I go to party non-stop for a week?’. Judging by the demeanour of 80% of our flight companions, that will be the question they asked themselves and found Ibiza to be the answer.

The White Isle is of course known for its dusk till dawn hazy hedonism but in recent years, the original spirit, soul and bohemian character of the island has drawn a new (or indeed, slightly older) visitor in search of a quiet, restful and distinctly more grown-up experience.

We’re there for that, and whatever fun gems we unearth as a new family of six. The upside of having teenagers is that you can go on holiday with them and get away with becoming one of them, as we found out pretty quickly.

We left our travel companions in various states of ‘tired and emotional’ at Ibiza airport and headed to our resort, The Grand Palladium White Island Resort & Spa, a sprawling five-star resort on the beachfront of Playa d’en Bossa, just 10 minutes away.

The largest all-inclusive resort on the island, the hotel is a cluster of Mediterranean style buildings, situated around a large freshwater lagoon pool which buzzes with energy and comings and goings; perfect for people watching, equally ideal for siesta snoozes under the palm trees, drifting off to the poolside beats.

The hotel has recently been renovated with minimalist, fresh décor which creates the impression of added space and an air of relaxation. The vibe is a mixture of free and floaty with little pockets of fun.

Fancy a bolder buzz? Trip trap over the connecting bridge and you’ve arrived at the Grand Palladium Palace hotel next door with its two large pools, waterslides, pool games, tennis courts, big beats and sports bars. Livelier, with a more energetic vibe.

Guess where we’re headed five minutes after arrival…

I swap my usual arrival Prosecco for a blue slushie. With vodka. If you can’t beat the kids join them.

The Grand Palladium White Island Resort & Spa is at the far end of Playa d’en Bossa beach, perfectly placed for beach and beach club access and just a 10-minute wander from the superclubs such as Ushuaïa and HÏ Ibiza, which I didn’t think would be particularly relevant for our stay. Wrong…

Behind the hotel you’ll find the salt flats of Ses Salines natural park; historically, Ibiza was nicknamed ‘the island of salt’. More than 210 species of birds live in the park – go flamingo watching, you’ll find them wading here towards the end of the summer. Beautiful at sunset.

There are seven restaurants, including two buffet restaurants, four a à la carte and seven bars; more than enough to cater for the whims and fancies of our teens. Being all inclusive means that they can feed when they want, where they want and eat whatever they want which quite frankly means more poolside lounging and freedom for my husband and me.

Must visits are La Dona for à la carte Mexican gastronomy in a stylish outdoor terrace, Il Palazzo for a delicious al fresco dinner of Italian classics and Portofino on the beach front for Mediterranean cuisine.

There’s an extensive activities programme all day and pretty much all night for all ages; football, archery, darts, ping-pong, pool games, Padel tennis, tennis and paddle surfing. The Mini Club has a huge range of activities for little ones and the Junior Club gives teenagers an added escape with a full activities programme, interactive zone and they can have DJ lessons and become as cool as they really think they are.

The resort’s Zentropia Spa is a daily reviver for me. It has a tranquil sunny outdoor area, large, warm water dynamic swimming-pool, sensation showers, a Turkish massage area and loungers for soaking up the rays under the swaying palms. Head indoors to the wellness zone with special cabins for relaxation and thermal treatments. Brave the cold and immerse yourself in the plunge pool for the ultimate ‘sharpener’.

Our daily pattern of activity consists of breakfast with whatever children choose to join us and basing ourselves at the pool for the day; everyone has freedom to come and go, chat, eat, zone out, go to their rooms and do whatever makes them happy. An early evening visit to the beach becomes a family ritual and we soak up the beach club sounds in the sea as the day gives way to apricot skies and the ‘magic in the air’ spellbinding vibe which is so unique to the island.

Most nights are spent with the kids, however we have a ‘green pass’ for one night only as I’ve got us on the guest list to see The Avalanches at Pike’s, an iconic rock n’ roll institution and home to 30 years of hedonism, including that party to celebrate Freddie Mercury’s 41st birthday (Google it…) and of course, the pool in the Club Tropicana video.

‘Freddie’s’ is where we’re spending the night, an intimate party space which was transformed from the original suite where Freddie Mercury spent many months each year, recording and escaping from the public eye. His bed is still there, a place for louche lounging and moments of escape from the heat of the dance floor. Pike’s is a ‘if the walls could talk’ kind of place… History and hedonistic heritage ooze out of every secret nook and cranny. It’s a nighttime wonderland of fairy lit twist and turning pathways, neon signs, captivating art, Balearic beats, happy people and decadently grown up party vibes.

We return to our hotel, just in time to take the kids for breakfast. A ‘sunglasses indoors’ kind of morning…

My husband and I float through the day with our dreamy memories of the disco ball and get ready to do it all again, this time at nearby super-club Hi! Ibiza, formerly Space nightclub, a mecca of electronic music for 27 years, a 10 minute walk from our hotel.

I’ve promised my son a night at Future Rave with David Guetta, which I begin to regret somewhere around about 10pm when getting ready to go out, rather than to go to bed. My faith in the dance floor is however restored, somewhere around 3am when I see his face lit up by lasers and the energy of 3000 clubbers, delighting in the digital sounds.

Our final big experience happens off the dance floor. We’ve chartered a boat from Boats Ibiza for swimming, snorkelling and sunset seeking. Our captain, Dan, skippers us out to sea and round the coastline from Ibiza Town where we drop anchor and immerse our happy souls in the turquoise waters of Cala Roja bay before losing ourselves in the spiritual spectacle of an Ibizan sunset at sea.

Every party must come to an end and as we head to the airport I remind myself that the goal of every holiday is to leave feeling better than when you arrived. As I looked at our four kids, headphones on, hoodies of their new Usuhai and Hi! Ibiza hoodies up (airport purchase), freckled and zoned out, I thought to myself, ‘Ibiza really is the answer’.

Six new experiences, one happy family, tired feet and heads, sunshine filled hearts.

A microdose of healthy hedonism

Looking for a quick escape to recharge, recalibrate, restore and return renewed?

Ibiza is the answer.

Ibiza is of course the answer to many questions such as ‘Where can I go to party for three days and nights on the bounce?’.  Judging by the demeanour of 80% of our flight companions, they will also have asked themselves that question and found ‘Ibiza’ to be the answer. 

Ibiza is of course known for its dusk till dawn hazy hedonism but in recent years, the original spirit, soul and bohemian character of the island has drawn a new (or indeed, slightly older returning) visitor in search of a quiet, restful and distinctly more grown-up experience.

The goal of every holiday is after all, to leave feeling better than you arrived.  So, with that in mind, we leave our four kids, dog, two businesses and full-on lives to escape to the white isle for a large dose of ‘healthy hedonism’.

For two days, we’re going where the A-listers recharge and retreat; Atzaró Agrotourism Hotel and Spa.

An easy three-and-a-half-hour flight from Edinburgh, followed by a 25-minute whizz in a taxi to San Lorenzo in the north of the island and we’ve arrived at our heavenly hideaway feeling a million miles away from the beats and buzz of the dancefloors (which we did actually find ourselves on a few weeks previously…).

Nestled at the foot of the Atzaró mountain, against a lush backdrop of Sabina and pine tree forests, the hotel is built on the site of a 300-year-old finca.  The sprawling, secluded estate is 13 hectares of thriving farmland, fragrant orange groves, tropical palms and Mediterranean herb and fruit gardens.

Climbing roses and cascading bougainvillea cover the original finca which has been converted and developed by the fourth generation of the Gausch family. Black and white photos of the family with a legacy now talked and written about all over the world, adorn the walls of what has become an Ibizan institution (if you know, you know…).

The hotel is luxurious, serene and secluded; a ‘respectful hush’, under-the-radar destination which has made it a favourite of celebrities and A-listers ranging from Rihanna and Shakira to actress Kate Hudson and the Fendi family.

There are 24 individual suites at the hotel; 10 are close to the original finca with a rustic, authentic Ibizan feel, the 14 hillside villas and suites which sit in a private, elevated position are more modern in design.

My husband and I have a vast but cosy suite (September in Ibiza can come with a slight chill at night), with a covered, private terrace shielded by an orange tree.  Polished terracotta floors stretch from the suite’s charmingly rustic lounge and fireplace past a four-poster bed and beyond, into our natural marble bathroom.

I’m gently struck by the intricate craftmanship and authentic aesthetics of the interiors which pay homage to the hotel’s rural heritage, creating the feeling of being somewhere back in time; the 300-year-old Sabina tree roof beams, teak four poster bed dressed in crisp white linen, the locally crafted furniture and lighting and mother of pearl in-laid doors. 

The Atzaró Design team source items which fit with the energy of the spaces within the hotel, creating a unique feel from the bedrooms to the outdoor spaces, the restaurant to the spa.  The welcome table which unusually, has been carved from the roots of the tree is an item like no other.  Perhaps, this is why everything here has a strange air of serendipity, a sense of things being ‘meant to be’.

The connection to nature is 360 degrees strong and a unique energy washes over each of the senses as you meander through the village like whitewashed pathways and tiptoe across the lilypad pond stepping stones.  The air is filled with the tranquil sounds of palms swaying in the wind; a family of peacocks strut majestically across the gardens, rustling their tails and displaying their plumage.  The soothing sound of trickling water is all around; there are nine pools dotted throughout the estate (one is 43 metres long).  Body and soul are filled with the gentle warmth from the fiery red earth as you wander through the three hectare vegetable garden, home to passion fruits, apples, avocados, papayas, lemons, pomegranates, limes and oranges, cucumbers, lettuces, tomatoes and herbs.

After a dreamy wander through the grounds, cocoon yourself in the Atzaró spa for an other worldly experience in one of the carved wooden treatment rooms.  Immerse yourself in a vinyasa flow yoga session in one of the spa temples, detox in the sauna and renew your skin cells with a soapy scrub in the hammam.

Emerge in a blissful, zen like ‘zero worries’ state, float through the spa and herb gardens (the botanicals provide the ingredients for the organic Atzaró Spa product range) and spread out on one of Atzaró’s famous giant outdoor four-poster daybeds where I promise, you’ll be asleep within minutes.

Food is one of the strongest points of the hotel.  Ex-River Café chef and food consultant, James Adams, famous for his work with Somerset House, Heckfield Place and some of London’s top restaurant kitchens partnered the Atzaró team earlier this year to launch a new concept for the hotel’s restaurants.

The farm-to-fork Mediterranean menu at the hotel’s main restaurant, La Veranda connects every dish with nature; organic vegetables, fruits and herbs are plucked daily from the Atzaró Vegetable Garden. 

Simplicity and taste are key features of the menu; the Seabass Citrus Ceviche on our first evening was a truly uplifting, zesty experience, the grilled beef fillet with sage sauce, roasted potato and sweet potato a beautifully warming dish and harissa roasted carrots with tahini yoghurt and pistachios a deliciously moreish side. 

The breakfast buffet offers a selection of fruits, pastries, meats, cheeses, yoghurts, cereals, fresh juices and Cava.  The menu features a range of healthy options such as coconut chia pudding with mango and strawberries, acai banana bowls with pomegranate, smoked salmon with avocado on toast, eggs any way you like it and a rich, smoky, spicy Shakshuka which my husband and I chose.

Take a trip to Aubergine by Atzaró, a ten-minute trip from the hotel which is the must-visit, bucket list Ibiza restaurant of 2022, serving homegrown, home-made vegetarian, vegan, meat and fish specialities.

Set in a restored, rural finca, a rustic, thoroughly wholesome menu bursting with fresh and temptingly tantalising dishes presents the best kind of menu dilemmas.  The restaurant, popular with families, locals and tourists is pared back with a chilled, welcoming, typically Ibizan vibe. There are five cosy dining rooms and three outdoor terraces.  We choose our spot in the twinkling light of the gardens and to dine beneath the stars.

My starter of roasted aubergine carpaccio, cherry tomatoes, feta cheese, pomegranate, dates, pistachio and rocket pesto with naan bread, tahini sauce and chilli oil was deliciously healthy – other worldly good. My main, Turkish aubergine stuffed with beef and lamb meat, honey, chili, spices with creamy yogurt and tahini sauce was comforting with a glorious collision of warmth and spice; all set off magnificently with a glass of 2013 Juvé & Camps Iohannes Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot.

A two-day trip to Atzaró is an authentically restorative, blissful bohemian break; a truly uplifting, mellow and restful experience in the most idyllic, quiet and exclusive surroundings. We decompressed, nourished our bodies, souls and senses with uninterrupted time to connect with nature (and each other) and returned home, ready to turn the volume back up on life.

Visit atzaro.com to book. Prices start at 230 euros for a double room, including breakfast. For Atzaró Beach restaurant and beach club, go to atzarobeach.com. To make a reservation at Aubergine at Atzaró, see aubergineibiza.com

Wind and waves in Fuerteventura

There’s no good time to get Covid, however 10 days before jetting off for a sunshine break in Turkey would seem unfortunate, and in this case, required a decisive, rapid change of plan due to the entry requirements at that time.  Our alternative destination – Fuerteventura.

Situated less than 100 miles off Morocco’s Atlantic coast and known as ‘the island of strong wind’, Fuerteventura is a paradise for surfers and watersports enthusiasts; it’s also been attracting holidaymakers and those looking for something a little off the beaten track for more than 50 years.

Fuerteventura is an island of natural drama with its rugged coastline and arid landscape; volcanic mountains and fiery red rocks tower over shifting sand dunes, palm trees sway with the warm Saharan winds, the powerful ebb and flow of the Atlantic waves both soothes and stimulates.  The wildly beautiful surroundings are so elemental, I’m reminded of the unique, intense energy this island has.

My first visit to Corralejo was when I was 18.  I was with my family.  Correction – I travelled with my family and spent two weeks with a bunch of surfers living a bohemian life on the beach.  It’s very much that kind of place.  You’ll find a blend of understated luxury, restrained development and an upliftingly refreshing windswept, laidback vibe running through all aspects of life here. 

30 years on, my home this time is the Secrets Bahia Real Resort, situated in an idyllic natural enclave just a few miles from the centre of Corralejo and a 40-minute hop from the airport. 

Renovated in 2021, this adult only oasis is reminiscent of a Moorish palace with its Arabic dome and expansive, airy, leafy atrium and classic pillars, sub-tropical flowers and marble floors; the resort interiors are a blend of warm terracotta walls, open spaces, verdant gardens, hidden features and open rooftops.

Each suite has a generous amount of space with just the right touches of simple elegance and 5-star comfort; a pillow menu, free wifi, a wide range of satellite channels, tea and coffee set and well stocked mini-bar.  A double sofa, wooden desk, coffee table and super kingsize bed give you all you need to relax, (work if you must) and sleep soundly.  Our spacious terrace was the perfect spot for elevated views of Lobos, a volcanic nature reserve and Lanzarote in the distance.  The luxurious marble bathroom has a wet room style walk in shower, white fluffy bathrobes and slippers, a range of toiletries and twin basins.

Two swimming pools are located in the large colonial influenced internal courtyard garden with sun loungers and rattan chairs, a tropical oasis which offers shelter and shade from the coastal winds and all-day sunshine.

Walk out of the courtyard on to the resort’s Coco Beach, a trendy, relaxed beach club setting with private sun terrace, Balinese cabanas, premium loungers and lush gardens.   A wooden walkway stretches out to a set of stairs leading down to the sea, if you’re brave enough for a dip in the Atlantic waves or simply relax, sundowner in hand embracing the chilled vibes.  The beach dining space is elevated over the Atlantic and surrounded by glass, offering mesmerising views in a stylish environment with an impressive menu of tapas and seafood.

The hotel has seven restaurants offering an international buffet, Mediterranean gourmet cuisine, local dishes, Asian fusion, seafood and casual bites, with vegetarian and gluten-free options.  The buffet breakfast presents more than 200 items; go healthy with the impressive range of herbal teas, juices, fruit, yoghurts and cereals, indulge your inner child with sweet treats and pastries (there are jars of fizzy Haribo…), go full on cooked breakfast, order off menu to get your eggs exactly how you like them or go Mediterranean continental with an impressive range of Spanish meats, olives, cheeses and grilled vegetables.  You’ll also find just about every breakfast condiment under the sun, if you’re more of a ‘toast and tea’ type.

When you’re not enjoying a luxurious gourmet experience or soaking up the rays, wander down to the vast, 3000 square meter, beautifully tranquil Secrets Spa by Natura Bissé which offers 17 treatment rooms and a range of wellness therapies, a large-heated pool, hydrotherapy circuit, sauna and steam room.  Don’t forget the ice fountain…. The spa also has a rooftop pool with open jacuzzi and sun loungers if you’re looking for a totally blissed out sun worshiping experience.

If sun salutations are your thing, you can do plenty of them.  The resort has a daily morning yoga glass in the spa gardens – the most idyllic, gentle way to refocus the mind and let the energy of the island flow through your body and soul as the waves lap on the shore.

Windblown, sugar white sandy beaches stretch in both directions around the hotel.  Turn right for a barefoot beach walk along Kite Beach towards the famous Corralejo Natural Dune Park; you’ll find stretches of sand dunes rolling for kilometers in the distance, dramatic, panoramic views all around.  A must visit.

Turn left for a breezy wander along the coastline to Corralejo, drop into some of the surfer bars along the way and enjoy the chilled beachy vibe while watching the action on the water, cocktail in hand. 

The uber-relaxed town of Corralejo has grown from a harbour village to one of the watersports capitals of the world.  Walking down the strip you’ll find the usual tourist tat, steak houses, sports bars and gimmicky shops but as you get closer to the large, sheltered harbour, you’ll get more of a sense of the history and essence of the place. 

Stroll along the old harbour to find the local, authentic restaurants serving the catch of the day with Canarian potatoes, an absolute must try.  These wrinkly, salty potatoes are served with a signature spicy, smoky red pepper and garlic ‘mojo’ sauce and feature on most menus.

Small, swimming beaches stretch along the harbour, the busiest being Galera Beach, or Playa Waikiki as it’s known by the locals due to the situation of the famous hub of day and nightlife in Corralejo, the Waikiki Beach Club.  Throw your towel down and venture into the crystal, clear water and enjoy the bay’s ideal swimming conditions.  Pack a snorkel and discover life under the waves.

Seafood is a culinary staple in Corralejo and there’s an abundance of excellent restaurants to suit all budgets and tastes.  We went off the beaten track, as we tend to do to in pursuit of simple food, done very, very well and found it in Bistrot del Mar, a tiny restaurant located at the back of a shopping centre.  Many say it’s the best seafood restaurant they’ve been to. I would agree; we ordered 12 of the Gillardeau oysters and a bottle of crisp Albarino.  The experience was so good we repeated the next evening.  It’s very popular with the locals so do book well in advance.  You will not be disappointed.

Another foodie highlight for us?  Pizza at Pizzeria da Vivi; simple, authentic Italian pizza – no fuss, easy surroundings and for two pizzas and a couple of glasses of red you’re looking at 20 euros.  Easily one of the best pizzas I’ve had.

People seem happy here in Corralejo, whether they’re ex-pats, locals or tourists; simplicity is everything and so much of that comes from the island’s natural elements.  It’s a destination that knows what it is and feels entirely comfortable with that; that really does rub off on you and I found myself slowing down right down and embracing the simple pleasures of life, along with some memorable treats.

Fuerteventura is very low key, peaceful and chilled but with an unusual upbeat energy, emanating from nature and the people who choose to be there.

I won’t be waiting another 30 years to visit.  My next trip is already booked.

Winter Sun in 5* Secrets Bahia Real Resort & Spa – Fuerteventura
7 nights, B&B in a Junior Suite 
From £2058 per couple (based on December travel)
Flying from Edinburgh 

To book: find your local Barrhead Travel store by visiting barrheadtravel.co.uk or call 0330 094 8364.

Hitting the reset button in Dubai

A break means entirely different things at different times to different people.  After spending limited time away over the last two years for obvious reasons, except for a couple of ‘home from home’ holidays (which involve doing exactly as you do every other day but in a different house  – shopping, washing, ironing, cooking and cleaning for four kids and a dog but with the added bonus of annual leave and a slightly earlier cocktail hour…), my other half and I decided to go beyond the East Neuk for an Arabian adventure and much needed hit of the reset button.

Our choice of retreat is Sofitel Dubai The Palm, a Polynesian style resort, situated on the East Crescent of Palm Jumeirah with views of the Arabian Gulf on one side and the Palm on the other.

The resort was designed to be a place of rediscovery and enchantment, drawing its style from the French Polynesian islands. The main entrance features the tiki symbol on its enormous wooden doors, through which you’ll step inside to an other-worldly interior; earthy tones, American ash, bamboo, green foliage and an array of tranquil water features evoke the lushness of South Seas. 

The hotel lobby sits under a natural wood cabana, the tendrils of the Koru, a traditional fern symbolising the embodiment of new life spiral from the top of a living wall vertical garden, creating a unique botanical ‘outdoors indoors’ tropical escape.

An infusion of traditional Polynesian symbols and motifs appear all around; the Koru, Gecko, Tiki, Turtle, Butterfly, and Tiare flower symbolise peace, freedom, energy, connection, life, and new beginnings.  Quite frankly, that’s the content I’m here for. 

We arrive after midnight and head to our Junior Suite, an expansive 60m living space with an uplifting, exotic blend of natural, luxurious features.  The bathroom has a centralised oval stone bath overlooking the living space and a separate rain shower room. Rich purple and blue textiles add a sultry depth to the understated, airy interior, creating the most perfect of welcomes after a long journey.

The 24-hour hotel fitness facility has an early morning allure which my other half’s sub-zero temperature garage gym is somewhat lacking in late February, so it’s an easy morning bed roll into gym gear, quick water bottle grab and on to the treadmill. 

My daily post gym reward is wash of endorphins followed by a salt bath, cold pressed vitamin fuelled superfood juice and views of a sunshine-soaked Palm.

Breakfast at the Manava restaurant is as healthy as you want to make it with cereals, seeds, yoghurts, fresh fruit, omelettes or choose from a deliciously impressive international buffet if you’re feeling more indulgent.

A lazy post-breakfast meander along the palm lined brick pathways, past the thatched-roof huts takes us to the golden sands and crystal blue waters of the Arabian Gulf and our tiki cabana for our post-flight flop.

The rest of the day is spent soaking the rays, the warm breeze tickling my free-flowing thoughts into afternoon slumber, punctuated only by the peripheral sounds of gentle splashes from the pool and the distant chilled house beats. I’m a world away…

I wake to a dreamy vibe as dusk descends; the hour or so before sunset is an enthralling time of day in Dubai.  The blend of pink and orange hues across the sky, the sweet smell of the shisha and the promise of an Arabian sunset – sundowner time. 

We have a choice of 12 restaurants, bars and lounges in the resort; the multi award-winning Porterhouse Steaks & Grills, one of the most popular steakhouses in Dubai is top of the list.  An elegantly relaxed restaurant with moody lighting, dark wood accents and buttery leather armchairs; think chic ‘speak-easy’, it’s the perfect pre-prandial venue with a list of vintage cocktails to lose yourself in. 

Dinner is a dozen oysters followed by an Australian Black Onyx Angus Tomahawk and side portions of creamy spinach, hand cut chips, wild mushroom fricassee, grilled asparagus and a classic Béarnaise sauce, washed down with a full bodied, smoky Argentinian Malbec. A welcome, end of day diversion from all those good intentions we arrived with.

Another early morning rise on Day 2 presents an ideal opportunity for a long-awaited victory on the tennis court, followed by a swim and continental breakfast which sets us up perfectly for a cruisy morning around The Palm and marina in the hotel’s speedboat, gawping at the mind-blowing impressiveness of skyscraper meets sand meets sea meets speedboat.  It’s a world away from a Zoom laden day at the desk; the sparkling stuff memories are made of.

A beachy afternoon follows and a wander to The Palm’s trendiest beach bar, the Laguna Lounge for the signature Smoked Chocolate Negroni in our elevated, pagoda style, Barasti walled cabana to watch the sunset fall over the city.

Dinner is a super casual shuffle from cabana heaven to the hotel’s Desi Junction Brunch, a brand-new night brunch offering a rich and aromatic journey through India’s vibrant street markets, with an array of food stalls and live cooking stations.  Choose from a selection of south Indian dishes such as Fish Koliwada and Kerela Fried Chicken, curries, chaat, dahl, rice and deliciously sweet and syrupy deserts.  Standout Indian food accompanied by a gentle evening breeze and moonlit views across the Palm; a dreamy end to the day, another memory made.

Our final day has a somewhat less tranquil but thoroughly exhilarating start as we step into our very own ‘pocket yacht’, a Sea Camel mini-speedboat for a fast and furious glide across the Arabian Gulf and Palm, pushing the throttle to the max as we speed past endless luxury villas, resorts, sandy stretches and the palaces.  Entering the marina is a great deal more subdued thanks to the speed limit; it feels entirely Bond movie like, drifting slowly and quietly past the towering glass buildings as we watch a group of skydivers wind their way towards the ground. 

Breakfast is not for me today thanks to my slightly wobbly sea legs so it’s a trip to the resort’s newly renovated spa for a very long-awaited massage. 

One of the biggest spas in Dubai, the newly renovated SPA L’OCCITANE has 28 treatment rooms, hammam facilities, steam room, sauna, plunge pool, infinity pool and female and male relaxation rooms.  The ‘Journey to Arabia’ signature treatment with rose fragranced body scrub combines Swedish effleurage, Chinese acupressure and Balinese massage techniques to release stress and tension and the feeling that I’m still riding along on the crest of a wave.

An utterly rejuvenating experience followed by a sun-fest afternoon takes us to cocktail hour and a Sangria Infused Rosé at the Laguna Lounge.  With an early morning flight, we’re keen to avoid anything on the heavy side for dinner so we’re off to the resort’s Moana seafood restaurant, an exquisite fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine. Choose from a selection of sashimi, nigiri and maki rolls; Peruvian specialties include Street Truck Ceviche, Hokkaido Scallops Tiradito, Salmon Criollo, Grilled Chicken Anticucho and many more.  I may spend the rest of my life trying to recreate the tuna ceviche.

Three days away from work, children and dog is just enough time to rest, recalibrate and delve into a whole new world of experiences in Dubai with some very much needed dawn to dusk sunshine, relaxed luxury, out of this world cuisine and just the right balance of thrill and chill.

Sofitel Dubai The Palm
Rooms from £165+ during Summer (May-September), £330+ remainder of the year
https://www.sofitel-dubai-thepalm.com/

Emirates
Flights from Glasgow to Dubai from around £500 in February
emirates.com

Bright lights and baubles in NYC

I’ve just stepped out of a yellow taxi in NYC on a Saturday night, a few days before Christmas and I’m brimming with Buddy the Elf-like levels of enthusiasm at every sight, smell and sound around me. 

Everything feels like a glitteringly special moment I have to capture this very instant.  I reach for my camera to take a shot of the reflection of a neon sign in a giant dirty puddle.  I am glowing with joy, seeing magic in the mundane and glitter in the grime.  There’s probably a puddle right behind me all lit up with my sparkling silhouette being captured by another starry-eyed tourist…  I am ‘Congratulations!  The world’s best cup of coffee – you did it!’ excited.

Being anywhere in New York at any time of the year feels like stepping on to a movie set but to be here at Christmas time is what I imagine arriving at Santa’s Grotto in Lapland feels like for a child.

I have a list of ‘do-this-see-that’ as long as my arm but I’m only here for three days so I need to prioritise and have shaped my list around themes I want to experience and remember forever.

Bridges

I’m staying in a Sonder apartment in the Financial District which is now one of New York’s trendiest, most cosmopolitan areas and not the Gordon Gekko style habitat that you might think.

This means I am just a five-minute walk away from Brooklyn Bridge and the best views of downtown Manhattan. 

I’m an early riser so I’m on the bridge for sunrise, it’s quiet so I can capture all the images I want and after a bracing walk, I’m ready to head down to explore the charming cobblestone streets of DUMBO at the other side. 

I grab some coffee to warm up my stroll along the shoreline at Brooklyn Bridge Park and of course snap that Insta famous shot of the Manhattan bridge with the Empire State Building peeping through the middle from Washington Street while there’s hardly anyone around.

Brunch

Sunday brunch in New York is a must whenever you’re visiting but a trip to the Temple Court Bar Room at The Beekman Hotel, the No 1 Hotel in New York (according to Conde Naste Traveller) marks my official step into Christmas this year. 

One of the city’s first skyscrapers, sitting on the doorstep of Brooklyn Bridge, The Beekman is one of those grand, old New York buildings that you associate with 19th century wealth, old world glamour and late-night tales of opulence and extravagance – a ‘if the walls had ears’ type place.  Entering the building is like taking a step back in time to when the good times really rolled.

The Bar Room sits on the ground floor of the nine-story Victorian atrium, underneath celebrity chef Tom Colicchio’s Temple Court restaurant, a moody, dimly lit, swanky, intimate space with velvet sofas and chairs, wooden floors, tasseled lampshades, vast antique rugs, bookcases, art filled walls and jazz. 

It is cosy, sophisticated and comfortable and Sundays are jazz brunch day so my cocktail menu perusing is accompanied by the background tinkle and brass of the Latin ensemble with their vintage, tropical ‘Ipanema beach in the 60s’ style sultry tones. 

A couple of sips of peach and ginger Bellini and I’m whisked away to another era…  There are lots of light dishes to choose from – oysters, tuna salad, chicken liver parfait, steak tartare, eggs Benedict and a dreamy baked Alaska that wins me over for desert.

The staff couldn’t be more friendly and chatty – the General Manager hails from Glasgow so lots of tales from home are exchanged.

Christmas Trees

You are never far from a showstopping Christmas tree in NYC.  My apartment is next to the New York Stock Exchange, illuminated in red and green for the festive season so I have one of the biggest trees in the city quite literally on my doorstep. 

Bryant Park is home of a jaw dropping 55 foot, 90-year old spruce decked out in red, blue and silver baubles and of course there’s the famous Rockefeller tree, towering above the ice rink made famous in many a Christmas movie at 77 feet tall. 

The tree is a world-famous symbol of New York at Christmas which draws 750,000 visitors a day.  Gaze upwards in awe at its 50,000 multicoloured fairy lights and Swarowski crystal star (it has 3 million crystals…). 

Head to Greenwich Village and away from the crowds to see the 45-foot tree sitting under the arch in Washington Square Park for a slightly more sedate Christmas experience. 

Bright lights and baubles

If you’re visiting the Rockefeller tree, do a quick 180-degree swivel to catch the Saks Fifth Avenue, ten storey tall Christmas light show. 

The dazzling two-minute show runs every fifteen minutes;  it’s one of these experiences you’d quite happily wait another 13 minutes to see again. 

One of the most photographed Christmas images of New York is the giant red Christmas baubles which you’ll find on Sixth Avenue across from Radio City Music Hall. 

Check out the giant reindeer and Nutcracker themed figures at the Peninsula Hotel on Fifth Avenue too and pop in to the lobby to see the 30ft tree standing magnificently at the bottom of the two staircases adorned with Christmas garlands and baubles.

Razzle Dazzle

The Christmas Spectacular with the Radio City Rockettes is probably the highlight of my Christmas in New York experience and that says a lot as I’m not big on shows (although Andrew Llloyd Webber was on my flight so he was perhaps put there by the jazz handed Gods to get me in the mood…). 

This however, is like nothing I have ever seen.  Sitting in the grandeur and amber glowy glory of the iconic Radio City Music Hall watching the orchestra rise up from nowhere before 100 candy cane striped high kicking precision dancers parade across the stage is probably the most New York thing I will ever do.  This is the bit in my trip where I feel like Orphan Annie. 

Radio City Music Hall is an experience in itself.  Arrive early and enjoy a festive tipple whilst soaking up these famous Art Deco surroundings under the 50 ft crystal chandelier, which comes out once a year for Christmas.

Christmas cocktails

Dante in Greenwich Village has recently been named the world’s best bar, so it’s top of my list to try at 4pm on a Monday afternoon because hello world, I’m not doing the school run today…

The Italian style aperitivo bar has been there since 1915, a place where local Italian immigrants would gather to chat with an espresso and over the years has attracted locals, visitors and many a famous face in search for a little piece of Italy.

Dante is as you would expect, famous for its Negronis (in fact it has a dedicated Negroni Sessions happy hour) of which there are 12 different varieties.   Since it’s Christmas, I’m going for the one with the gold flakes, the Negroni Sbagliato (meaning ‘mistaken’ in Italian) which uses Prosecco instead of gin.  I will be holding on to those Negroni memories of this friendly, buzzing little slice of cocktail heaven to power me through many an end of day school run to come.

Rooftop bars

Get cosy outside, six storeys up in the cold, crisp Manhattan air at the McKittrick Hotel’sLodge at Gallow Green’ rustic rooftop bar and restaurant, a secret garden escape where you can sit next to the firepit with a hot wine cocktail, gazing upwards at the West Chelsea warehouses, loft apartments and stars. 

This charming, rickety, winter lodge style hideaway with its cosy, wooden nooks and crannies, fir trees and pine cones takes its inspiration from Scottish bothies, so you’ll find hiking boots hanging from ceilings, old fashioned maps of Scotland on the wall and a tasteful amount of tartan. 

The menu will warm your heart too – go for the French Onion soup with port and gruyere and the steak ciabatta for a classic après-ski style eat. 

Head uptown to The Skylark for some late night glam and sophistication indoors and sip your cocktails 30 storeys high, taking in the most breathtaking views of the surrounding Manhattan skyline over the Hudson river, and a straight on view of the Empire State Building.

The late-night bar bites menu with its mini burgers and pizzettes is the perfect accompaniment to that bottle of champagne. 

It is definitely my most glamorous destination at midnight on a ‘school night’.

Window displays

You can do Fifth Avenue without melting your credit card by taking a stroll past some of the high-end stores where you will almost certainly want to pull your camera out and get snap happy in front of the Christmas window displays. 

Cartier is literally all wrapped up with a giant red bow, Gucci and Louis Vuitton are an explosion of neon colour but Bergdorf Goodman pulls out all the stops and does ‘holiday windows’ like nowhere else. 

This year’s theme is ‘Bergdorf Good Times’, with its seven main displays dressed to bring to life parties, board games, amusements and all manner of revelries.

If you’re feeling like a treat afterwards, head round the corner to The Plaza Food Hall for a glass of champagne and salmon caviar blinis, a coffee and a cupcake or just a wander to take it all in.

Food
In NYC you will walk, a lot.  Thousands and thousands of steps so be prepared to build up a bit of an appetite before you choose from the city’s 27,000 plus restaurants.  After a day pounding the streets, I’m keen to indulge in a bit of French chill out so head a few blocks down from Bergdorf’s to db Bistro Moderne and settle myself down with a French 75 and their classic menu. 

This is home of the famed DB Burger, a sirloin patty stuffed with foi gras, short rib and black truffles.  Created by French chef Daniel Boulud, db Bistro Moderne is where the gourmet burger craze started and this one is on every ‘Best Burger in NYC’ list you’ll find. 

Lively, casual but refined enough to feel very special, this bistro is one of the top rated in New York and is an absolute must visit for a long relaxing lunch in cosy modern surroundings. Oh, and the snails to start is garlicky heaven on earth and a must try.

Winter Wonderland
The Bryant Park Winter Village surrounds a 17,000 square foot area of ice magic. 

Get your skates on, literally and have a twirl on the ice beneath the skyscrapers before wandering round the 170 wooden huts in the village for food and Christmas market shopping with a hot spiced cider.  A totally warming experience, full of seasonal spirit and festive fun.

New York at Christmas is a glittering playground for grown-ups.  Everything is a moment, a memory in the making.  It doesn’t even matter what your budget is.  You can come here and buy wonderful, luxurious experiences or you can come on a budget and experience just as much magic for free.  It’s all around you and I suppose if you feel it inside, you’ll see it outside, so puddles become neon mirrors, a crowded downtown train is a cosy people watching get together, a skyscraper rooftop morphs into an alpine lodge and a flat white in the sub-zero Central Park temperatures really does feel like the world’s best cup of coffee.

Discover all that New York has to offer in the NYC Official Guide, whatever season you’re planning to go at http://www.nycgo.com

MC
xx

A Gothic revival in Ghent

It’s 9.30am and I’m the only person over the age of 16 on the top deck of a crowded double decker train heading at breakneck speed towards somewhere in Belgium that lies way, way in the opposite direction of where I want to be. I’ve become a frantic blue dot on a Google map on a dying phone, lurching southwards until I am replaced entirely by a blank screen, filled with the realisation that I may spend the rest of the day on a bizarre trans-Europe express adventure with a school party from Brussels.  I dig deep for my schoolgirl French.

There is a much, much easier way to get to Ghent, my weekend destination.  The early morning flight from Edinburgh takes just over an hour, hop on a train from the airport to St Peter’s station in Ghent and in another hour you’re there.  Or not, if you go the ‘long’ way…

My home for the weekend is Zannier Hotels 1898 The Post in the heart of the historical centre of Ghent, a dramatic Neo-Gothic structure next to the river Leie.  I step off the tram and gaze upwards at the 54-metre clock tower spire as it chimes 1pm (only two hours later than my ETA…); I half expect a bat to fly past and the north wind to blow an unexpected, chilling gust.  Standing on St Michael’s Bridge, I feel as if I’m about to enter my own little dark fairytale.

Ghent feels like a hidden treasure, slightly off the radar in comparison to neighbouring Bruges.  It’s a university town with 14 centuries of history on show through its blend of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture and cobbled streets, sitting on the banks of a web of meandering canals.

The approach to the hotel, once a historic post office building is through an illuminated flower garden and once you’re in the building you’re presented with an imposing, cast iron spiral staircase that winds all the way up to the tower – an altogether unique entrance. 

In stark comparison to the grand, dark and intimidating exterior, the inside of the hotel has a warm, inviting feel.  It’s like stepping into an elegant timewarp of 20th century European casual refinement. 

Luxurious, comfortable and quirky, 1898 The Post is a characterful slice of gothic marvelousness with personality in every room, corridor, nook and cranny; there’s always something I’m gravitating towards to pick up, read, look at quizzically and photograph. 

It all feels entirely authentic and a shade eccentric, as if every object has travelled great distances through history and time to spend the rest of its days in the great company of similar items, a kind of curio nirvana.  Nothing feels staged or contrived.  Everything feels slightly like a museum of world travel.

The hotel has 38 rooms and I’m staying in a ‘Letter’ duplex overlooking the Korenmrkt, one of the city’s busiest squares and home to the St Nicholas Church, an iconic architectural feature in Ghent.

My room is a moody blend of dark hues; deep-green walls, antique furniture including a writing desk adorned with curious trinkets and postcards, a double height ceiling, expansive windows dressed with heavy cross grey curtains, wooden floors and a staircase that winds upwards to the bathroom on the mezzanine floor. 

Octagonal white marble bathroom tiles, a huge walk in shower room and dark brass fixtures give a contemporary but luxuriously retro feel.  Vintage books sit on either side of my bed alongside that small rectangular hole in the wall that any traveler finds huge comfort in seeing – the thoughtfully placed USB charging port.

The room has generous open storage and the chicest mini-bar I have ever encountered; a huge collection of spirits, cocktail making accoutrements and importantly, the right types of glasses, so you can mix your own Negroni in style with everything you need.

The earthy interiors of 1898 The Post lull you into a dark and dreamy escape where time seems to exist elsewhere; it’s so tempting to be seduced by my sultry surroundings with the glowy amber light shining onto my enormous crisp white linen covered bed, and just cosy up and close my eyes but explore I must.

I’m delighted that my tourist adventures begin right at the doorstep to my hotel, the Graslei which sits on the right bank of the Leie river.  Once a medieval port, this is now one of the city’s tourist and cultural hotspots with a collection of bars and restaurants occupying the ground floor of town houses and guildhalls that ooze history and tales from the city’s merchant past. 

A five-minute wander and I’m at Gravensteen, a 12th Century stone castle with a moat, turrets and torture museum.  Beautiful from the outside and fascinating I’m sure on the inside but I have so much ground I want to cover in less than 48 hours so I dig out my map and 30 Euro City Card and get walking.

Everything you’d want to see is probably within a ten-minute walking radius in the historic centre.  Have a quiet mosey around the streets and churchyard of the Saint-Elisabeth Beguinage, an enclosed religious community established for women in the 13th century during the Crusades.

A two-minute walk and you’re back in amongst the meandering throng where you can wander down towards Korenlei, opposite Graslei, passing the famous Fallen Angels shop which houses the most enthralling mix of nostalgia in its window display (I have never seen such impressive window displays in any city – Ghent really has the edge on this…). 

Street art is a big thing in Ghent, but you’ll have to seek it out as it’s all in the one place – Graffiti Street on Werregarenstraatje, a five minute walk from Patershol where artists are free to tag as they wish.

Learn more about the secrets of the city in a 40-min boat tour and view Ghent’s architectural gems from the water as you drift along the canals.

A visit to Saint Bavo’s Cathedral is a must.  Home of the Van Eyck brother’s masterpiece, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, the cathedral has the most breathtaking Gothic façade and a rich, Baroque interior filled with sculptures, carved tombs and religious artefacts and paintings.

Cross the square and climb the stairs of The Ghent Belfry, a recognised UNESCO World Heritage to enjoy a 360 vista of Ghent from 91 metres up.

Have a wander round the Design Museum, which has a collection of more than 20,000 objects and decorative arts from the 18th century to present day.

Ghent is also a shopper’s paradise, whether you’re looking for high end fashion, quirky boutiques, charming gift shops or gourmet food stores. 

Head to Veldstraat, the main shopping area and wander aimlessly through the twisting cobbled lanes of Patershol, the culinary heart of Ghent; a charming, picturesque collection of old-fashioned shops, cosy dining spots, bohemian vibe and some of the oldest bakeries and confectioners in the city. 

Ghent offers an array of gastronomic experiences; the food here is very, very good and the city is home to some of Belgium’s best restaurants.  Visit Brasserie Pakhuis, a warehouse from the 1800s that’s been turned into a three-level restaurant with a very super cool, relaxed vibe serving local dishes with a modern twist.

Beer and frites is big on my to do list; for the former I visit Dulle Griet, which offers a selection of 500 beers.  If you’ve got your ‘good’ socks on, order the Max van het Huis, served in a traditional Kwak glass.

You’ll have to swap one of your shoes as insurance for the glass (the pub was losing 4000 Euros worth of glasses a year with tourists smuggling them out as souvenirs) before you sit back with your beer, relax and watch as your shoe is hoisted up to the ceiling in a basket.

Visit Michelin star-chef Sergio Herman’s Frites Atelier, recently named Europe’s No 1 place for fries, for a box with their freshly made sauce and a beer while you watch the world go by in Groentemarkt square.

Ghent has a gentle tranquility, there’s a dreamy stillness even amongst the bustle around the city’s cobbled streets and canal side eateries, possibly due to the fact that there are very few cars; it’s mostly pedestrianised, so the only sound of traffic you’ll hear is a bicycle bell and a tram as its glides past.  The pace is slow and one thing that’s really noticeable is that everyone is really enjoying life and their surroundings, stress free.

Pretty by day, Ghent by night feels like a glittering costume change thanks to the city’s award-winning light plan which provides sustainable lighting without wasting energy. 

Museums, streets, shops and squares are lit up, casting soft light and shadows across the surrounding buildings, transforming the city into a twinkling wonderland. 

You can’t help but feel drawn in by the magic around you and filled with the urge to wander further in and out of the winding streets and alleyways, exploring the light and dark corners of the city, which of course you can do in the city’s Light Walk.

A visit to The Cobbler, 1898 The Post’s bar and one of the most famous bars in Ghent for a cosy late night glass of red next to the fireplace is a must after my weekend’s walking adventures.

My 48 hours immersed Ghent’s old-world charm, rich history and culture and cool, cosmopolitan vibe has left me feeling completely enchanted, enough to tempt me back for another adventure and most certainly, for these frites…

Rates start at €180.00 per room per night including city tax, excluding breakfast. www.zannierhotels.com

For information on visiting Ghent, visit www.visit.gent.be/en 

MC
xx

Living like the Medici at Villa La Massa

Photo 12-10-2019, 10 18 54
It’s 3.30pm on a Friday afternoon and today I’m not in ScotRail carriage, travelling home after what will have been an excruciatingly busy week, with a body that is craving sleep and a nodding head that has just switched itself back on upon hearing the crack of a G & T can two seats down.

Today I’m sitting in a restaurant terrace overlooking the river Arno, watching the calm waters running slowly towards the rolling Chianti Rufina hills, a glass of Prosecco in hand, the golden, mellow mid-Autumn sun shining down on my ‘end of week’ face. My mind is slowly hypnotised watching the wood smoke from a nearby house drift downstream in the still air against a backdrop of endless vineyards, olive groves and Cypress trees rising towards the cloudless blue skies.  It feels like one of life’s perfect moments, one you’d like to press the pause button on by sitting completely still; my eyes are drinking in my surroundings with every mouthful of chilled bubbles that pass my lips. I want to screengrab this moment.

I am without a doubt, in adult fairytale land.  You’d be hard pushed to find a Scotrail carriage with that description; it could well be that I just get on at the wrong time of course…

I’m staying at Villa La Massa for the weekend, a 16th century Medici villa, home to Tuscan aristocracy for hundreds of years, which was turned into a luxury hotel in 1953.  The hotel was bought by the Villa d’Este Group in 1998 (Villa d’Este in Lake Como is its sister hotel) – both are in the Leading Hotels of the World collection.

Sitting majestically in 20 acres of lush gardens, just five miles downstream from Florence at the gateway to the Chianti region, the hotel is perfectly placed for a tranquil escape with easy access to Florence and a variety of cultural and gastronomical experiences on your terracotta doorstep.

The hotel has 51 rooms, each one with a unique style, layout and interior, spread throughout its five Tuscan-style properties. The architecture in Villa La Massa is in complete harmony with its surroundings, the golden ochre of the hotel’s main building, Noble Villa; the soft amber of The Villino, a seven bedroom private villa overlooking the Arno on one side and the estate’s lemon and olive groves on the other, the rich terracotta exterior of The Mill, the soft, neutral tone of Casa Colonica, an ancient farmhouse with four suites and a charming, rustic courtyard for eating and the recently renewed and relaunched Limonaia, a soft grey two storey stucco building, once home of the lemon trees in winter, now my home for two days in October.

I have a spacious Prestige Double room with a private terrace overlooking the river beyond the dove grey floor to ceiling shutters.  The room has a colour palette that reflects the hotel’s Renaissance splendour with hues of ochre, burnt sienna, aquamarine and emerald green; the rich, vibrant colours of jewels translated into sumptuous velvets, silks and damasks, including a hand-made silk cream rug that sits on top of the rich durmast oak flooring.

The feel is luxurious and contemporary with a nod to authentic Tuscan style; a warm, charming embrace of colour and personality with a refreshing airiness which is carried through to the vast marble bathroom with its magnificent bathtub, enormous double sinks, separate wc and walk in shower room.

A large basket of luxury toiletries and grooming accoutrements sits between the two sinks, two giant white fluffy robes folded in their own little grooved compartments underneath.  A sprawling bed sits in the middle of the room, covered in perfectly creased 100% linen white sheets with pillows the size of clouds.  My ‘end of week’ self could be forgiven for just going to bed for 48 hours…

The level of luxury and the craftmanship in the interiors (the furniture and interior details such as the lamps and pictures have all been masterfully designed by local craftsmen) is one of the many reasons why Villa La Massa is one of the Leading Hotels of the World.  My inner and outer surroundings are magnificent.

Eating is a huge part of my experience here, as you would expect.  It’s Autumn, so I enjoy a special truffle themed menu prepared by Chef Simone Paredi who joined the hotel from Villa D’Este.  I start with a risotto prepared with Alba white truffle followed by beef fillet with mashed sweet potatoes, Porcini mushrooms and white truffle flakes and Madagascan vanilla ice cream with white truffle for dessert.  I’m treated to the most incredible selection of friandises to follow, accompanied by the beautiful honey, vanilla and apricot sweetness of a Vin Santo Serelle Chianti 2015 dessert wine.

Restaurant Il Verrocchio is an elegant, refined but entirely comfortable and relaxed dining experience, made so by the charmingly attentive and genial host, Restaurant Manager, Paulo Micheli and his team who deliver the most seamless, unobtrusive, impeccable service.  The menu offers a choice of both national and regional dishes. Try the grilled octopus on Tuscan breaded cream with herbs to start, the pappardelle pasta with wild boar ragout and pecorino cheese for first course and the grilled lobster with wild rice and artichokes in a bisque for your main.  The food at Villa La Massa is exquisite. Breakfast is a buffet of fresh juices, fresh fruit, local meats and cheeses, cereals, breads, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs and of course Prosecco – is there a better way to start the day?

During your stay, take a dip in the heated pool, lounge on the lawns, wander around the Iris gardens or accompany Chef around the Chef’s Garden, where he grows a range of aromatic herbs and seasonal fruits and vegetables. Take tranquillity to another level with a trip to the Arno Spa in the cellars of the hotel; it has a Turkish bath, sauna, Roman bath with hydromassage and sensorial showers along with a range of treatments.  I had an hour-long massage which was quite possibly the best I’ve ever had.  The spa uses products prepared by Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, meaning you’re literally covered in high end luxury from head to toe.

The hotel’s shuttle bus will have you at the famous Ponte Vecchio in Florence within 20 mins where you can begin your exploration of culture, Renaissance art, architecture and of course some high-end shopping.

Visit Caffe Gilli, the oldest café in Florence and the city’s ‘sitting room’ for over 270 years, grab a gelato, people watch in Piazza della Repubblica and wind your way through the tourist filled streets towards the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Take a trip away from the bustle of the city into the luscious, rolling green hills of the Chianti region to visit Badia A Passignano, home of an ancient Benedictine Chapel and Ristoro L’Antica Scuderia. Warm, welcoming and relaxed, this restaurant offers one of the best, authentic dining experiences in the region with breath-taking views of the Tuscan landscape.  Go for the guinea fowl stuffed with Chanterelle mushrooms, roasted potatoes and seared chicory – it’s one of the restaurant’s signature dishes.

Visit the Cusona Estate spread over 530 hectares near the medieval town of San Gimignano, home to the Guicciardini Strozzi family, an ancient noble Florentine family who have owned the estate for over 1000 years.  Book a truffle hunting experience with Princess Irina, truffle master Andrea and the Princess’ dogs Bozia and Macchia.

This was an absolute highlight of the trip for me, strolling through the estate watching the dogs sniff out the White Truffles in the golden late afternoon sunshine before taking a tour of the winery and enjoying the afternoon’s spoils grated over a selection of foods, all washed down with some of the finest wines from the estate.

Villa La Massa offers an experience that can’t be matched. There is no property like this in the world.  It offers the best of entirely everything – the warmest of welcomes, impeccable service, luxurious, characterful and authentic interiors, the highest level of comfort and refined ambience in the most serenely majestic surroundings.  The hotel has cultivated an environment where you can’t help but slow down and enjoy a full appreciation of the finer things in life, the surrounding countryside, the beautiful accommodation, the history of the property, the gastronomy and warmth of the hospitality around you.

I still marvel at the fact that I can be standing on the Ponte Vecchio Bridge at 4pm on a Sunday afternoon and tucked up in bed by 11pm, at my desk at 8am the next day.  It’s never been easier to get about so quickly and more possible to be somewhere reasonably far away but still home for bedtime. Sometimes at the weekend I won’t venture further than M & S Food.  This weekend I went to Tuscany and had the experience of my life; the most sublime, enchanting episode, a fairytale to which I very much hope to return.

MC
xx

Villa La Massa

www.villalamassa.com

Rates start from €590 (approx. £530) per room per night, based on double occupancy including breakfast

Via Della Massa 24, Candeli, Frienze
Italy

Tel +39 055 626 11

An elegant escape to Malta

 

 

 

 

To say that the way we travel nowadays has changed beyond recognition is an understatement.  I can’t remember the last time I had a two-week holiday – the very thought gives me serious ‘in-box dread’ anxiety, so much so, all the good work that a 14-day trip does would be unravelled between the hours of 9am and 10am on a Monday and by midday I’d be booking another holiday…

Travel is so good for the soul though; no matter how tired your body feels when you return from a trip, your inner being tends to feel restored and renewed, your mind open to new ways of thinking and doing things, with a whole new perspective on life.  Especially after a three-day ‘drink in all these sights with your eyes’ trip, which is probably one of the reasons why more of us are taking micro-breaks rather than 14-day fly and flops.

My micro-break this time is Malta, one of Europe’s most talked about destinations since Valletta became European Capital of Culture 2018, an island situated at the centre of the Mediterranean, basking in over 300 days of sunshine a year and just a four hour hop from Glasgow on a rainy Monday morning.

 

 

 

My ‘base’ for my three-day culture, cuisine and continuous sunshine trip is The Phoenicia Malta, one of Europe’s Grande Dames – an upscale 5-star architectural treasure steeped in history and charm in Floriana, overlooking the City Gates to Valletta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Built by the British in the 1930s and opened as a hotel in 1947 following its requisition by the RAF in the Second World War, the hotel was a favourite of the Queen when she and the Duke of Edinburgh lived in Malta in the 1950s and since its recent refurbishment has become one of the Leading Hotels of the World.

 

 

 

Grand in stature with its Art Deco façade; elegant, airy and refined, The Phoenicia Malta matches its magnificence with the warmest of welcomes.  I’m shown to the Palm Court lounge at the heart of the hotel for a glass of Prosecco where I can relax in the most gently uplifting surroundings – high ornate ceilings, 1930s glass doors, grand arches and marble floors, potted palms dotted around the lounge with its cornflour blue, white and bright pink décor.

 

 

Doors lead to the main restaurant, The Phoenix Restaurant and its terrace overlooking the hotel’s lush 7.5-acre manicured grounds at the foot of the bastion walls of Valletta.

 

 

I’m taken to my Executive Room and instantly throw open the doors to my balcony to take in the most breathtaking view of Valletta and the Grand Harbour.  This is a real pinch yourself moment.  It’s like looking out towards the most glamorous of Bond movie settings – rows of yachts and superyachts floating on the glistening blue Mediterranean waters with a dramatic backdrop of Valletta’s unique mix of Baroque and medieval architecture.

The room is all whites and cool blues, dark natural wood and huge blue and white chinoiserie lamps at either side of what may be the largest bed I’ve ever seen.  The authentic tiled floor, one of the original features of the room adds classic elegance to the fresh, modern and luxurious interior of the room.  The bathroom is another treat – a mix of beige, white and chrome, Art Deco in style with a huge bath and all the luxury products and comforts you would expect from a hotel that has a place in the top 400 in the world.

I visit The Phoenix restaurant on my first night, a stunning room inspired by the grand cafés of Europe; the food is as you would expect, exquisite, courtesy of Executive Chef Daniel de Battista, who trained with the late Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles.  His philosophy is built around conscious eating, using the freshest of produce and local ingredients.

 

 

I had the lobster tagliatelle followed by a delicate monkfish curry, courgette and green olives.  I struggled (but managed) to find room for the dreamiest of puds – a chocolate and orange mousse with orange creméux and vanilla ice cream, all accompanied by a deliciously drinkable bottle of Melqart – a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot from Malta’s Meridiana Estate.

Breakfast at The Phoenicia Malta really is fit for a king… platters of smoked salmon, local cheeses, cold cuts including ham cut from the bone, freshly squeezed Maltese oranges, the usual cooked breakfast staples, cereals, breads and a showstopping whole honeycomb. I’m tempted to live like a queen in the beautiful confines of the hotel for my three-day trip but I have a list of ‘must sees’ as long as my arm.

 

 

For a small island of 16 by 9 miles, there is an unbelievable amount to see and do but if you plan your visit well, you’ll get to ‘tick off’ these must do experiences in a relaxed, enjoyable way.

 

 

 

 

Start off at the magnificent Triton Fountain, situated a few metres from the entrance to the hotel, next to the City Gates.  You’ll pass Parliament Square with Renzo Piano’s awe-inspiring Parliament Building – an architectural innovation, two huge blocks of stone, seemingly suspended in mid-air.  Stroll down Republic Street and visit St John’s Co-Cathedral, Malta’s most impressive church (there are 313 churches in Malta).

 

 

 

 

You won’t be immediately impressed from the facade but as you step inside, you’ll find what is considered to be one of the finest examples of high baroque architecture in Europe.  Richly ornamented in typically baroque exuberance, the church is also home to one of the greatest art treasures in the world, Caravaggio’s ‘Beheading of St. John the Baptist’.

 

 

From there, visit the 16th century Grandmaster’s Palace, the residence of the Knights of St John which now houses over 5000 suits of 15th century armour, intricately ornate in design and a huge collection of weapons from muskets to swords.

 

 

Take time to pop into Café Cordina opposite the palace for a caffeine fix and some sweet treats. Established in 1837, it’s a Maltese icon and the perfect situation for some palazzo people watching.

 

 

Meander down one of Malta’s most famous streets, Strait Street, once the seedy underbelly of Valletta where military men docked in the harbour for a good time throughout the 19th century right through to the 1950s.  You’ll see these reminders of the past – the faded exteriors of bordellos where the ‘wine, women and song’ helped soldiers forget about the horrors of war. Visit StrEat Whisky & Bistro for some of the best cocktails in Valletta.

Valletta feels like a city proud of its character and history with a renewed confidence and easygoing warmth.  The streets are vibrant, welcoming, casual and cosmopolitan with bars and restaurants abuzz with life and laughter.  You could spend the whole day mooching through the streets and alleyways, looking upwards to admire the colourful balconies – the gallerias – a unique and iconic feature of traditional Maltese buildings.

 

 

Wander up to Upper Barrakka Gardens for some peaceful respite from the buzz and grab some shade. Built on top of a bastion at the highest point in Valletta, this was a private garden of the Knights and offers the most stunning views of the Grand Harbour and the three cities of Senglea, Vittoriosa and Kalkara.

 

 

The Upper Barakka Lift is a must do.  The panoramic outdoor lift will take you 20 stories down from the gardens straight to Valletta’s waterfront where you can hop in a Dghajsa, a traditional Maltese gondola across the water to the Three Cities – Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua; ancient and full of mystery, with narrow streets and winding alleyways, they offer a real insight into authentic Malta life.

 

 

A short journey from there lies Mdina, an ancient fortified city dating back over 4000 years, known as the ‘Silent City’.  Home to Malta’s nobility descending from Norman, Sicilian and Spanish lords as far back as the 12th century, Mdina is one of Europe’s most famous walled cities, with an extraordinary mix of medieval and baroque architecture and a distinctly Arabic influence.  There’s something very ‘Thieves of Baghdad’ about the maze of narrow, winding alleyways, lit by lanterns on the walls. It feels like walking around a film set and was in fact used as a filming location for Game of Thrones.

 

 

Do not miss the opportunity to visit the small, charming, picturesque (and entirely Instagrammable) fishing village of Marsaxlokk (pronounced marsa-schlock) on the South East of the island, famous for its fish market, seafood restaurants, palm tree lined promenade and colourful Luzzu boats dotted around the harbour.

 

 

The famous Luzzu fishing boats are brightly painted in shades of yellow, red, green and blue with a pair of eyes at the front.  The eyes are believed to be a modern survival of an old Phoenician tradition and are normally referred to as the Eye of Orisis, the Phoenicians’ god of protection from evil. They are a symbol of protection and good health and are believed to protect the fishermen from any harm while they are out at sea.

 

 

Food is a big thing in Malta and the food is really, really good (portions are on the large side so bear that in mind whenever you feast your eyes on the menu). If you have time, make a point of visiting Diar Il-Bniet in Dingli, Malta’s first agritourism venture. Located in an idyllic valley of olive trees this is a family run farm and restaurant producing some of the Mediterranean’s finest and most iconic food with a ‘farm to table’ approach. The restaurant is full of rustic charm and the food is fresh, wholesome and authentic.

 

 

My sightseeing days in Malta feel pretty full (there’s just so much to see), however, my travel adventures and discoveries are complemented perfectly by my stay at The Phoenicia Malta.  There simply is nothing better than going into full on exploring mode during the day before returning to world class luxury to wash away the day with a swim, taking in one of the most magnificent views in Europe and of course a classic Martini from the Club Bar, shaken, not stirred…

 

 

Malta was so much more than I was expecting – it was an experience of a lifetime and one that will pull me back in Summer 2020 without a shadow of a doubt.

Rates at The Phoenicia start from €250 (Approx. £230) per room per night including breakfasthttps://www.phoeniciamalta.com/

Fly from Glasgow to Malta with Jet2.com – return flights start from £153

For more information on Malta, visit http://www.visitmalta.com

A week of wellness in Rhodes

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Rhodes – a place where my best friend from primary school went on her holidays circa 1985, not somewhere I have ever really considered visiting, unless of course they still sell ‘I ❤ George Michael’ pencil cases.  When I get on a plane, I like to go far, far away (probably more so now than ever…) and get right out into the world for big adventures but this year’s different.

I need to go on holiday to rest, renew and re-energise.  Neighbouring ‘it island’ Mykonos floats all my boats but this summer, cosmopolitan partying is off the holiday wish list.  I need to hit the re-set button.

Rhodes is a four and a half hour hop from Glasgow, just enough time for four episodes of Curb Your Enthusiasm, a couple of glasses of wine and a few close your eyes and dream of what lies ahead moments.

What lies ahead for me (as far as I know…) is the Gennadi Grand Resort, a new minimalist luxury eco-resort, blending into the Aegean coastline of the less-explored Southern corner of the largest Dodecanese island.

From the airport the resort is a 50-minute drive – a dreamy whizz past clusters of white sugar-cube houses, Byzantine churches and endless miles of mountainside scattered with cypress and pine trees, far away from the tourist resorts; everything begins to feel quite rustic quite quickly.

Until we arrive at the resort… a stunning, ultra-modern collection of buildings.  Futuristic in style, it feels very LA with the white angular buildings set against the mountain backdrop – a bit like going on holiday to the Getty Museum.

 

 

The design philosophy is built around the concept of ‘Wellness Architecture’; healthy, sustainable buildings if you like.  Spaces that have been designed to look structurally beautiful whilst delivering a checklist of seven healthy building categories – air, water, nourishment, light, fitness, comfort and mental health.

 

 

Gennadi Grand Resort delivers this through a seamless balance of style, luxury and thoughtful design and architecture; a neutral palette, sharp angles and slanted roofs that complement the surroundings and optimise the micro-climate conditions, its low-slung buildings are made from locally sourced porphyry rock, chosen for its minimal maintenance properties. The resort has a focus on water consumption and uses a reverse osmosis system to deliver 20,000 litres of clean, sustainable water.

 

 

Floor-to-ceiling windows allow the natural sunlight to stream through the buildings, paths around the resort are dotted with all manner of pools and glistening water features and low sunken lush gardens with indigenous flowers and olive trees – it all makes for the most incredibly uplifting experience.

 

 

Gennadi Grand is stylishly sophisticated in an entirely feel good, minimalist way.  Zero opulence and unnecessary fuss.

Our room is a spacious Scandi-chic Junior Suite which has a separate lounge area, terrace and private pool.  Decorated in creamy neutrals with ocean blue accents, natural wood surfaces with mood lighting, the room is designed in such a way that every bit of space is maximised for function and utility but not at the cost of comfort and luxury.

 

 

White fluffy bathrobes hang in the bathroom area, double sinks set in a long marble surface with generous storage beneath; ample drawer and cupboard space with probably enough space to hang the entire contents of your suitcase.  In keeping with the resort’s eco-ethos, there’s no bath, but it’s not missed.  The walk-in waterfall shower is instantly invigorating and there are pools in every direction you turn your head anyway.

With 288 rooms, nine restaurants, lounge bars, a spa, gym, three huge swimming pools, chill pools, water features, tennis courts and private beach, the resort is vast; everything thoughtfully spaced out so it always feels peaceful, quiet and totally relaxed.

I’m a 6am riser, even on holiday (I know – what sort of person am I..?) but there’s something about being in this resort that makes you want to embrace as many opportunities as possible to ‘be well’. The hotel has a well kitted out gym which becomes No 1 in my morning routine, followed by breakfast where I can grab a smoothie, a continental breakfast or go for the standard cooked breakfast buffet fare, pancakes, waffles and pastries – my 16-year old son is in breakfast nirvana.  I draw on every bit of my willpower to steer clear of breakfast heaven and stick with my smoothies, detox juice and lemon tea.

 

 

My pool side days are sun filled and chilled, drifting off for sunny snoozes under the swaying palm trees, taking wake up dips in the pool and late afternoon meanders along to my yoga and Pilates classes.

 

 

I continue my wellness theme with a morning at the spa which offers a range of Greek inspired signature rituals, facials and body treatments that focus on releasing tension and promoting inner balance.  I float back to my sunbed after my 70-minute exfoliating massage and spend the rest of the day totally blissed out while my son takes himself off for his daily afternoon menu of of beach volleyball, water darts and water polo.

 

 

There are 12 bars and restaurants where we can spend our evenings.  Dinner at Filoxenia, the main restaurant is a mix of Greek specialities and international fare.  Provenance is an important part of the dining ethos at the resort, with much of the produce coming from local and independent suppliers, offering a quality, authentic dining experience which can be missing in many large resorts.  Greek meze snacks are served at Ouzo which becomes STK in the evening, serving grilled premium cuts with a deliciously mouth-watering selection of side dishes, sauces and salads.  This was the culinary highlight of the holiday and a perfect last night.

Sustainability within travel is no longer a ‘nice to do’, it’s top of the travel trends and what an entire new generation of travellers is looking for.  The Gennadi Grand Resort delivers this impactfully, subtly and very stylishly, offering a totally immersive and holistic experience, so much so, we didn’t venture out of the resort until it was time to leave.

 

 

My stay here gave me everything that I needed at a time when I needed it most. When I arrived, my head felt like a toxic junkyard.  As we drove away from the resort, I felt completely restored, all junk processed and filed away, my mind, body and soul nourished by every part of the Gennadi Grand experience.  The reset button on life firmly pressed.

Gennadi Grand Resort, Rhodes